Week Seventy-Four, Surprise, Surprise

Week Seventy-Four, Surprise, Surprise

Disclaimer: The content of this blog is mine alone and represents my own views and opinions and does not necessarily reflect the views of the US Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ugandan Government. Furthermore, the intention of this blog is not to malign, injure, or libel, any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Photos and videos in this blog may not be reproduced without this bloggers expressed written permission.

Part Four: Pole Pole Ndio Mwendo

Week Seventy-Four/ October 2017

Surprise, Surprise.

Fall

            Last week Wednesday, my husband and I left Uganda. We landed in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, on Thursday afternoon.

For the five days before our flight my husband had been hospitalized with the bacterial infection from hell (a nasty strain of helicobacter pylori). Although he was improving, Peace Corps Headquarters decided it would be best for him to return home to finish treatment and recover. We were told of the decision on Tuesday afternoon, 24 hours later we were on our way to the Entebbe Airport. I was able to fly with my husband as an escort, and have taken leave in order to stay with him until we’re able to return to Uganda.

To say it was a stressful experience would be an understatement. While I was relieved that my husband’s health was being taken seriously, having less than 24 hours to leave the country was stressful. It was especially taxing because, even though I was only taking leave and a medical evacuation is supposed to be temporary, we had to pack as if we would not be coming back. Thankfully, as my husband was not able to help me pack because he was still in the hospital, three of our close friends helped me pack, and even made dinner because all our food was already packed.

As we drove to the airport on Wednesday afternoon, I tried to memorize the shape of the hills, the angels of the duukas, the wings of the trash birds, and the smell of the sigiris’. It didn’t feel real that we were leaving the country. 24 hours earlier it never would have entered our minds that we would be leaving. Yet, there we were, in a Peace Corps bus, on our way to the airport with two other returning volunteers.

All of our flights went smoothly, from our eleven-hour flight from Entebbe to Brussels, with a stopover in Kigali, to our eight-and-a-half-hour flight to Chicago, and finally our thirty-minute flight to Milwaukee General Mitchell International Airport, where we were picked up by my step-dad. It has been fantastic to see family, but it’s surreal. Being somewhere, when you’re not expecting to be there is strange. A week and a half ago we were snacking on g-nuts, and sweating in capris and t-shirts. Now, we’re bundled up in winter clothing surrounded by falling golden leaves and children dressed in their Halloween costumes.

While the experience of packing up our lives, closing our bank accounts, and saying goodbye (hopefully temporarily) was exhausting, I am incredibly grateful to the Peace Corps (Peace Corps Uganda and Peace Corps Headquarters) for how everything was handled. We are still fully covered by Peace Corps medical insurance in Wisconsin, and have had no issues finding providers that will take the insurance; both of our flights were covered by Peace Corps, and my husband is given up to 45 days to recover and be cleared to return. If we had been on our own and one of us had gotten that sick, I’m not sure how, or how long it would have taken us to navigate not only returning to the states by finding treatment once we were back. My husband has improved tremendously and is almost back to 100%, so now it’s a waiting game until my husband gets a clean bill of health and we get cleared to return to Uganda. Until then, we’ll be enjoying fall, washing machines, and no anopheles mosquitoes; but also missing our friends in Uganda.

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My husband resting and watching TV.

I decided to take some photos of fall.

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Week Seventy-Three, Our Two-Year Wedding Anniversary in Kigali, Rwanda (Video)

Disclaimer: The content of this blog is mine alone and represents my own views and opinions and does not necessarily reflect the views of the US Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ugandan Government. Furthermore, the intention of this blog is not to malign, injure, or libel, any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Photos and videos in this blog may not be reproduced without this bloggers expressed written permission.

 

Week Seventy-Two, A Year in Review, Part Two (Long Overdue)

Disclaimer: The content of this blog is mine alone and represents my own views and opinions and does not necessarily reflect the views of the US Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ugandan Government. Furthermore, the intention of this blog is not to malign, injure, or libel, any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Photos and videos in this blog may not be reproduced without this bloggers expressed written permission.

Part Four: Pole Pole Ndio Mwendo

Week Seventy-Two/ October 2017

A Year in Review, Part Two (Long Overdue)

The Rainy Season

This is the long overdue second video for our first year in Uganda. I realize that it is now mid-October, it’s taken a while because I have not had internet strong enough to upload a video until now. The video, “A Year in Review, Part Two” picks up where “A Year in Review, Part One” left off, and goes until Mid-Service Conference, which took place the last week of August.

 

Week Seventy-One, Our Two-Year Wedding Anniversary in Kigali, Rwanda

Week Seventy-One, Our Two-Year Wedding Anniversary in Kigali, Rwanda

Disclaimer: The content of this blog is mine alone and represents my own views and opinions and does not necessarily reflect the views of the US Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ugandan Government. Furthermore, the intention of this blog is not to malign, injure, or libel, any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Photos and videos in this blog may not be reproduced without this bloggers expressed written permission.

Part Four: Pole Pole Ndio Mwendo

Week Seventy-One/ October 2017

Our Two-Year Wedding Anniversary, Kigali, Rwanda

The Rainy Season

During the first week of October, my husband and I traveled to Kigali, Rwanda, to celebrate our second wedding anniversary. We were able to take a bus, from Kampala, Uganda to Kabale, Uganda (which itself is a very long trip). Then, after spending the night visiting another volunteer in Kabale, we traveled across the border with the friend of the volunteer we visited, a newspaper-delivery man.

I am constantly amazed by the beauty of Uganda, but I was surprised to see how quickly the landscape changed as we crossed the border. The mountains in southern Uganda (extremely large hills, whatever you want to call them), are mostly bald and rocky. Yet, as we crossed the border and made the 90 minute drive to the capital, the bald hills transformed into lush, green mountains.

Just after crossing the border:

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Kigali:

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We stayed in downtown Kigali, at a Chinese-run hotel, the Hotel 2000. In addition to the Rwandan staff there were many Chinese staff, including the head chef. I enjoyed getting the opportunity to speak Chinese and eat amazing Chinese food. Actually, it was the best Chinese restaurant I have EVER been to outside of China.

Kigali, Rwanda, is advertised by Lonely Plant as, “arguably one of the most attractive capital cities in Africa, as well as easily one of the cleanest and safest.” (https://www.lonelyplanet.com/rwanda/kigali) I completely agree with this sentiment; however, I’d go one step further and say that Kigali is not just one of the most appealing capitals in the continent of Africa, it is one of the most alluring capitals I have been to anywhere. In my own opinion, based off of cleanliness, navigability, great food, and things to do, Kigali was nicer than Vienna, Austria and Bologna, Italy, just to give some perspective. Kigali was nice, and the people we met were helpful and friendly.

Not only is the city extremely clean and safe, but it is also in a stunning part of the country, nestled in the mountains. Moreover, Kigali is the economic hub of the country, and there is a robust Rwandan middle and upper class, visible in restaurants, museums, and the financial center. This stood out to me. I love Kampala, it has a lot of character, but in many of the nice restaurants in downtown Kampala, non-Ugandans are the customers and Ugandans are the staff. And this irks me every time. So, seeing that Rwandans were the majority of customers in Kigali, Rwanda, at the restaurants we went to, was markedly, and pleasantly different from Kampala.

Additionally, besides the great food, Kigali was both vibrant and navigable, and there were great art museums. I also enjoyed the architecture!

On the day we arrived in Rwanda, we went to the Kigali Genocide Memorial, the largest and most comprehensive museum to the 1994 genocide in Rwanda, located in Kigali. The museum was divided into several sections, a subterranean section, an above ground section, and an outdoor section. The subterranean section covered the colonial history that set the stage for the genocide, the events in the 1960s-1990s that led up to the genocide, the 100-day 1994 genocide, the genocide and post-genocide consequences, and the Gacaca Courts. Throughout this museum, not only does the text and audio guide walk you through each section, but there are also videos of survivors and historians discussing the background to the genocide, the genocide, and the consequences.

There are two stain glass windows that were made by the son of a survivor of Auschwitz, Ardyn Halter in the first section; essentially to show that steps could have been taken to prevent the genocide, that there were ways out, but they were not taken.

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The last part of the subterranean section of the museum was dedicated to those who were killed. There was a photos room, full of photos donated by family members of those who were killed. There was also a clothing room, of the victims clothing, and a room with glass cases of the skulls of those who were killed. The Rwandan genocide, much like the Bosnian and Cambodian Genocides, is known for its brutality. People were hacked to death by machete, drowned in pic latrines, stoned, impaled, or beaten with hammers, just to name a few. Moreover, the killings were intensely personal, Godparents killed their Godchildren, aunts and uncles turned in family, Priests and Nuns aided in the killing of congregants. In the videos throughout the museum, survivors talked about the difficultly of trusting after the genocide, but also talked about the importance of both forgiveness and reconciliation if they and the country are to move forward.

Actually, as I walked through the museum and thought about the events leading up to the intensely brutal and personal nature of the killings in the genocide, I thought about the U.S. The conflicts of Rwanda are not as different and far away as I think many Americans would like for them to be. The Rwandan Genocide did not happen because Rwandans are “uncivilized savages” as I have read in letters written by former colonial officers or in speeches about black people from white supremacists. What I have learned through many experiences, including visiting the Killing Fields in Cambodia, Auschwitz in Poland, the Anne Frank House in the Netherlands, the Gulag Museum in Russia, the House of Terror in Hungary, the Slavery Museum in Colombia, the Nanjing Massacre Museum in China, and now the Genocide Memorial in Rwanda, is that it becomes much easier to kill someone else when you have stopped believing that they are people. And part of the horror of this is that an individual stops believing that another individual is human for something that is completely out of the other persons control. One cannot control where they are born, who gives birth to them, or what religion they are initially raised in, but, we can control how we treat other people. The black person in the US did not chose to be born black, but the white supremacist, or the will-fully ignorant people with enough privilege to say, “why can’t we just get along” or “I don’t want to talk politics,” chose how they treat the person of color.

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The plaque says, “If you knew me and you really knew yourself you would not have killed me.” Felicien Ntagengwa.

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Next was the above ground section of the museum devoted to other genocides that have taken place in the 20th and 21st centuries. However, the section was called “Wasted Lives” because not all of the governments listed in the section admit that the acts committed were genocide. The section covered the Hereros killed by the Germans in Namibia, the Armenian, Cambodian, and Bosnian Genocides, and the Holocaust.DSCN4629

The most upsetting section of the museum was the section devoted to the children that were killed in the genocide, called “Tomorrow Lost.” Plaques to some of the children killed listed their favorite foods, drinks, how they did in school, and finally, how they were killed. The section helps you fully and painfully comprehend the absolute horror and uselessness of the killings. My husband put it well when he said, “these kids were worried about what juice they would drink after they came home from playing soccer, and then one day someone hacked them to death with a machete.”

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Outside the main building are gardens for contemplation and mass graves.

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Remember:

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However, we don’t want Kigali to only be known for its genocide. On our second day in Kigali we went to the Natural History Museum, also known as the Kandt House. Unfortunately, or fortunately, it depends on your point of view, much of the museum was under construction so the only things available were one baby crocodile and a robust exhibit of live snakes. I really like snakes, despite the occasional unwanted snake on our porch at home, so I thoroughly enjoyed the exhibit!

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We also went to the Inema Arts Center, it was an amazing gallery!

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“We want to make the kind of progress that will make Rwanda unrecognizable to those who define us by our tragic history. The future we are building is the future Rwandans deserve.”-President Paul Kagame

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On our third day we went to the Nyamata Genocide Memorial about 30 minutes outside of Kigali. During the genocide many people took refuge in churches, where they were then massacred. Over 50,000 people were killed in a massacre at Nyamata Church during the genocide.

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Then, we went to the Milles Collines (thousand hills) for lunch. The Hotel Des Milles Collines was made famous from the movie Hotel Rwanda, where many people were saved from being killed during the genocide. When asking for directions to get to the hotel we were met with the response, “yeah! The restaurant with the great lunch buffet!” It was nice to see that the hotel (where you can stay for $170 a night) was known for more than the movie.

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On our fourth day, we ate at Heaven Boutique Hotel and Restaurant for lunch. Besides the restaurant and hotel, they also had a fair-trade shop and small art exhibit! The food was excellent, and there is even a book about the place, check it out!

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After lunch, we traveled to the Kimironko Market, full of crafts, fabric, and food. It was a vibrant, bustling in-door market, with lots of people happy to show us around if we visited their shops.

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Finally, we went to another art gallery, the Niyo Arts Gallery, which was also excellent!DSCN4807

On our last morning in Kigali before driving back across the border in the afternoon, we went to the Paroisse Sainte-Famille. A church, which was also a site where many were killed during the genocide. Although it was unclear if the church pictured below was the site of the killings, or if the smaller church ten feet to the right was the site of the killings, and the larger church was constructed after the genocide.

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Overall, I was amazed by Kigali, both in the remembrances of the genocide but also in the efforts to be known for so many other things. I think, I will end with an earlier quote by Rwandan president Paul Kagame:

“We want to make the kind of progress that will make Rwanda unrecognizable to those who define us by our tragic history. The future we are building is the future Rwandans deserve.”

Week Seventy, Photo Highlights: Weeks 66-70

Disclaimer: The content of this blog is mine alone and represents my own views and opinions and does not necessarily reflect the views of the US Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ugandan Government. Furthermore, the intention of this blog is not to malign, injure, or libel, any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Photos and videos in this blog may not be reproduced without this bloggers expressed written permission.

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The bio-briquettes!WP_20170908_12_14_18_ProWP_20170908_12_16_34_ProWP_20170911_16_46_32_Pro

 

Week Seventy, The Peace Corps as Discourse Changing, Part Two, a Rewrite

Disclaimer: The content of this blog is mine alone and represents my own views and opinions and does not necessarily reflect the views of the US Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ugandan Government. Furthermore, the intention of this blog is not to malign, injure, or libel, any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Photos and videos in this blog may not be reproduced without this bloggers expressed written permission.

Part Four: Pole Pole Ndio Mwendo

Week Seventy/ September 2017

The Peace Corps as Discourse Changing, Part Two: A Cultural Anthropological Approach to Communication, a Rewrite

The Rainy Season

I edited and re-wrote parts of my post from week twenty (October 2016) of service.

From the application process, through the pre-departure process, to pre-service training and throughout service, Peace Corps Volunteers are encouraged to serve with an open mind and handle culture-clashes with grace.

However, the Peace Corps is a tough program. During two years of service, volunteers are put into situation of new stressors and challenges, thus it is important to address the question of how volunteers can more constructively process their experiences to adjust the schemata they come in with as they were raised in the US.

In some cases, in an effort to seek validation and camaraderie in their own experiences, volunteers who have been serving for some time may strongly project their experiences on new and incoming volunteers. In describing their experiences and seeking validation, sometimes volunteers assign surface level stereotypes to behaviors of host country nationals. In conveying these stereotypes, volunteers are adjusting and creating schemata, which then may serve to skew the interpretations of observations of incoming volunteers. New experiences the volunteer has in their country of service are categorized into the schemata. Within the Peace Corps volunteer cultural sphere, volunteers who have been serving for some time are the main definers of culture within that sphere, and that culture can be perpetuated or adjusted when volunteers interact with one another, because volunteers are both reflexive agents of their culture and cultural definers. Whether cognizant of it or not, volunteers who have been in country for some time perpetuate, adjust, or maintain, the Peace Corps Volunteer cultural hegemony. Then, when new volunteers enter that specific cultural sphere they are not only acculturated with existing schemata but also are acculturated into the cultural hegemony. New volunteers navigate a complicated process, negotiating their relationship between their own agency as they experience new phenomenon and the structure of Peace Corps Volunteer culture.

Volunteers navigate shifting identities within their former structures of the United States and the new structures of living in Uganda. It can be easy to fall back on comfortable schemata, particularly when the predominant surface-level definitions of Ugandan culture by volunteers lack deconstruction and a deeper conversation of how our history and enculturation affects our service. Therefore, I posit, that now with some brief framework, in order to further reshape our notions of Uganda, a cultural anthropological approach to the discussion may be beneficial. The idea is that added vocabulary can serve as a tool-box for volunteers to further address and describe culture-clashes they encounter, cognizant of the way our history, culture, and Peace Corps culture affects our schemata, so that we, as volunteers, are able to be more gracious reflexive agents of the cultures around us. Again, I would like to reiterate that I am not an expert, I am simply reflecting on my service. I would also like to add that everyone’s experience is subjective and I do not want to be misinterpreted as attempting to delegitimize the experiences of other volunteers, I have simply chosen one specific method to address how volunteers may more effectively serve.

A Cultural Anthropological Approach to Communication

Bearing in mind the role of history and culture in the United States and the volunteer industry, I will now address three common schemata used among volunteers. I am only addressing these three in order to keep the focus narrow and reduce the length of this already long essay. Peace Corps volunteers face great challenges and hardships during service and in the wake of stress it can be easy to fall upon colonially informed discourses perpetuated by volunteer culture within Uganda. However, I posit that by adding language to deconstruct volunteer experiences that depth can be added to the conversation. If language plays a key role in constructing reality and creating culture, possessing the language to further address questions of service is crucial. I would also like to add that there are many avenues with which one could deconstruct the following statements, and others have already undertaken those steps. I am only going to address these statements from a cultural anthropological approach to communication. Finally, I believe that one of the most valuable aspects of Peace Corps is that it provides an avenue for volunteers to imagine and live within a different hegemony

Firstly, there is the common schema, “Ugandans don’t have any sense of keeping time.” I am even guilty of this one. I selected largely in order to simply introduce some vocabulary. At surface level it is easy to be frustrated in this situation. A volunteer may have made an appointment, and they arrived more or less on time, and then wait, some volunteers state that they have waited up to two hours. While this is a surface level complaint, or culture clash, there are several layers of culture clash occurring. To address only a few, there is the culture clash between the American volunteers and Ugandan’s culturally relative understanding of time, which varies extremely due to many factors, such as a geography, economic status, and tribe/kingdom. I reside within the Busamia tribe in eastern Uganda, and every group or person I have scheduled meetings with have arrived five minutes before myself. The statement of, “Ugandans don’t have any sense of keeping time” is too broad of a universal claim to make in a diverse country such as Uganda.

Moreover, the statement of, “Ugandans don’t have any sense of keeping time” neglects the culturally relative concepts of time. In a cultural anthropological approach to communication, this clash could be described as differences between interface protocols, specifically, the differences between monochromic and polychromic concepts of time (Chamberlain location 1196). Interface protocol is multifaceted; however, it is essentially establishing how one individual can effectively communicate with another individual (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain location 1496 cite). Interface protocol is comprised of language, context, complexity (is an individual asking where the bathroom is or giving a presentation on the malaria parasites) generic culture, understandings of time and politeness (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain location 1520). In the case of the volunteer, not only are they navigating differing concepts of time and politeness, but also differences in generic culture. For example, the volunteer may be noticeably annoyed when the other individual finally does show up, and the other individual may also be hurt and not understand the rudeness from the volunteer.

More specifically, there are the differences between monochromic and polychromic time concepts of time, “Monochronic time is what one encounters when time is experienced as a strictly linear phenomenon…it becomes possible…to spent time, save time, waste time, lose time, find time,” while polychromic time is “the nature of time which one experiences when they view time more holistically. In this context, time tends to be pervasive; it is everywhere, wrapped up in everything…Time is in this context, intangible.” (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain location 1375). Most of the United States operates with a concept of monochromic time, while some tribes and kingdoms in Uganda operate with concepts of polychromic time. It becomes easy for the Americans to become annoyed because they have “lost time”, while for the Ugandan who is late, has not lost time, but rather moved on to the next thing.

Secondly, there is the statement, “If you ask someone for directions is they won’t tell you, they’ll just say “it’s there’”. The phrase, “If you ask someone where something is they won’t tell you” addresses the common interaction of, “where if the grocery store/matatu park, etc” to which a Ugandan may respond, “it is there” or “other there” and without giving any instruction in regards to north, east, west, or south. Dr. Edward T. Hall divides cultures on a spectrum of high context cultures and low context cultures (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain Location 1352). In high context cultures meaning is not explicitly verbally stated; meaning, most context of the question, response, or overall interaction is garnered from a shared historical and cultural background rather than what is verbally stated (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain location 1352,). In respond to the question, “where is the supermarket” some Basoga in the Busoga Kindgom of Uganda may say “bariyo” or literally, “it is there.” However, it is important to note and to caution ourselves away from the temptation of blaming a perceived lack of directions on development. China, where I lived as an exchange student from 2009-2010 and returned again in 2013, is an example of a high context culture. I lived in a city called Jiujiang, where the local dialect was Jiupohua. Jiujiang is an example of an extremely high context culture. When I would occasionally take a taxi home from school, the directions I would give to the driver would be little more than, neibian or zuoyidian, literally “there” and “go a little”.

Uganda and China are examples of high context cultures, and understanding a verbal interaction necessitates a great deal of presumed cultural context. The US, Germany, and Austria are examples of low context cultures, meaning, much emphasis in verbal interactions is placed on specific detail (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain location 1446). Thus, when a Ugandan says “it is there” or “other there” when asked about directions it can mean, “I don’t know”, “it really is right in front of you”, or “just keep walking”, and probably a whole host of other meanings that I am unaware because I lack the cultural competency. It is (in most cases) not that Ugandans are rude but that the volunteer lacks the cultural competency in the interaction and there is not a shared interface protocol.

Thirdly is the statement, “it’s like they’re children discovering technology for the first time.” This statement negates message speed and interface protocol (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain location 1496). Message speed refers to how often information is conveyed, the speed, and the content of such information (Dr. Edward Hall cited by Chamberlain location 1196). In this case the volunteers have an expectation different from the Ugandan about how often information ought to be transferred. Moreover, interface protocol is another source of culture clash in this situation because there is a lack of the same generic culture, or what behaviors, such as calling frequently, are acceptable.

However, there is an added layer of complexity in this situation, because it can be difficult for the volunteer to differentiate between what is just culturally different behavior versus what may be considered harassment. It is completely acceptable to be angry about mistreatment; however, it is important to differentiate, as volunteers become more enculturated in Uganda, the differences between mistreatment and cultural differences.

Addressing cultural difference with more language can serve to shift the discussion away from surface-level stereotyping or generalizing and begin to aid volunteers in developing a more nuanced understanding of the differences between cultures. Because, as volunteers are experiencing these interactions, or culture clashes, they are adjusting or reinforcing their schemata. Moreover, when volunteers interact with one another or project their experiences on new volunteers, volunteer culture is produced and then maintained or altered. Therefore, I posit that beginning to assign more detailed and nuanced language to culture clashes in addition to adding a greater awareness of how our history and culture shapes how we view the world, will allow volunteers to more graciously understand cultural clashes and serve with a greater awareness of how our history informs our service.

 

Also, there is not a smooth way to transition into a discussion of Gaslighting, but, it’s important. So please, take some time to understand gaslighting. Discussing schemata is important to processing our experiences as volunteers, but gaslighting is crucial in understanding and assessing how we respond to other volunteers experiences.

https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/communication-success/201704/7-stages-gaslighting-in-relationship

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/phpe.12046/full

https://mental-health-matters.com/denying-racism-and-other-forms-of-gaslighting/

https://everydayfeminism.com/2016/09/gaslight-people-in-social-justice/

 

 

Citations

Chamberlain, Robert. An Introduction to Cultural Anthropology, 2016.

Chaney, David, et al. Cultural Sociology: An Introduction, 2012.

Cole, Teju. “The White Savior-Industrial Complex.” The Atlantic. 21 March 2012. http://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2012/03/the-white-savior-industrial-complex/254843/

Donaldson, Leigh. “When the media misrepresents black men, the effects are felt in the real world.” The Guardian, 12 Aug 2015. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2015/aug/12/media-misrepresents-black-men-effects-felt-real-world

Easterly, William. The White Man’s Burden, 2006.

Mcelwee, Sean. “The Hidden Racism of Young White Americans” PBS Newshour, 24 March, 2015. http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/americas-racism-problem-far-complicated-think/

Said, Edward. Orientalism, 1978.

Zane, Damian. “Barbie challenges the ‘White Saviour Complex’.” BBC News. 1 May 2016. http://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-36132482

“1961-1991 The Toughest Job You’ll Ever Love. “ AdCouncil Peace Corps . 2016. http://www.adcouncil.org/Campaigns/The-Classics/Peace-Corps

 

 

Week Sixty-Nine, The Peace Corps as Discourse Changing, Part One, a Rewrite.

Disclaimer: The content of this blog is mine alone and represents my own views and opinions and does not necessarily reflect the views of the US Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ugandan Government. Furthermore, the intention of this blog is not to malign, injure, or libel, any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Photos and videos in this blog may not be reproduced without this bloggers expressed written permission.

Part Four: Pole Pole Ndio Mwendo

Week Sixty-Nine/ September 2017

The Peace Corps as Discourse Changing, Part One: A Brief Review of History, a Rewrite

The Rainy Season

I edited and re-wrote parts of my post from week nineteen (October 2016) of service.

Loucine Hayes, the former Peace Corps Uganda country director, wrote the following excerpt in a welcome letter sent to the 2016 Uganda Health and Agribusiness Peace Corps cohort several weeks before departure:

“This opportunity for service in Uganda can be among the richest growth experiences of your life, irrespective of background and age. It will be like nothing you imagine. The emptier your mind is of preconceived notions of the Ugandan people and the Peace Corps experience, the more likely this experience will be a positive one for you.”

Many volunteers are drawn to apply to the Peace Corps for not only what the Peace Corps offers, “it will be like nothing you imagine”, but what it represents, the Peace Corps Volunteers handbook states, “(The Peace Corps) represents something special. It is a unique government agency that best reflects the enduring values and ideals of the American people: generosity, civic pride, a strong work ethic, and a commitment to service.” Before departure, during training, and throughout service, Peace Corps volunteers are encouraged by staff to be introspective, open-minded, and gracious, as volunteers are supposed to represent, “something special.”

Nevertheless, the Peace Corps is a challenging program “(it’s) the toughest job you’ll ever love” (The Peace Corps AdCouncil). Service lasts for two years and volunteers are put into unfamiliar situations where they are cultural outsiders, don’t speak the language, face harassment, are far from their friends and family, and in many cases, volunteers are put in countries where they are hyper visible for the first time. Volunteers endure immense stress, unimagined hardships, and often, loneliness; in addition to their positive experiences. Throughout service volunteers are asked to be open, flexible, and recognize cross-cultural clashes; however, in the face of often overwhelming challenges, the question may be asked, how do volunteers process their experiences, both internally and verbally.

 

When navigating their changing sense of agency and structure, volunteers do not come in without any preconceived notions, nor can they rid their mind of preconceived notions prior to coming, as Loucine asked. Schemata, a script, “a set of expectations and projections that instruct us on what to expect” (Chamberlain loc. 5617), are built through the process of enculturation that every individual undergoes within their societies; meaning, volunteers are not navigating their agency and structure as blank slates, volunteers are navigating these new relationships with deeply rooted preconceived notions about the people of Uganda.

All volunteers are US citizens, and most volunteers were raised in the US. Therefore, for many volunteers their enculturation process involved forming relationships with their own agency and structure in an institutionally racist society. Moreover, for many volunteers, their experience in the Peace Corps, particularly volunteers in Uganda, is their first experience with being hyper visible. Volunteers are noticed because they look different, not because of what they studied in college, or their last job, volunteers are noticed because they look different than a large number of people in the country in which they are serving. Volunteers, are often given unwanted attention because they are hyper visible. Therefore, what schemata do they have to fall back on when they have negative interactions with Ugandans, schemata filled with the devaluation of black people, and a patronizing approach in navigating relationships.

If language plays a key role in constructing reality, and therefore, culture, how can volunteers use more language, rather than less, to deconstruct and adjust their schemata. Essentially, how can we, as Peace Corps Volunteers, address and deconstruct what it means to be, in many cases, a white volunteer from an institutionally racist country serving in sub-Saharan Africa in a former British colony, so that we are able to more effectively serve and understand and value the lives and realities of the Ugandans with whom we live and work.

Moreover, how can the existing Peace Corps cultural hegemony be adjusted to facilitate these deconstructions. I posit that by defining more language that can be used to describe cross-cultural clashes, in this essay just three common schemata, in terms of a cultural anthropological approach to communication, according to the work of Dr. Edward Hall, it may serve as a tool box for volunteers to better assign vocabulary to their experiences and define them beyond the surface-level, so that we are able to be more gracious reflexive agents of the cultures around us. Moreover, I also believe that in order to frame the discussion of these three schemata, it is vital it also briefly address colonialism, the relationship between colonialism and the volunteer industry, and the current climate of the US as an institutionally racist society, to understand that we are not autonomous agents in thought and interaction with others, we are deeply informed by the hegemonic discourses of the United States and volunteer culture once in Uganda. Even if we feel that we were somehow separated from racially-motivated violence in the US because of where we lived, the communities that allow us to think that we were somehow separated from the violence endured by people of color, is in itself indicative of the complicity in the institutionally racist structure. No one is exonerated from desperately needing to be a part of this conversation however uncomfortable. Well-intentioned willful-ignorance out of a desire to stay comfortable with our own sense of self, negativity impacts the livelihoods of people of color.

Finally, I believe that one of the most valuable aspects of Peace Corps is that it provides an avenue for volunteers to imagine and live within a different society. Peace Corps, especially Peace Corps Uganda, provides an unmatched opportunity for volunteers to adjust and rewrite their schemata in a different cultural setting. Volunteers have the opportunity to have black role models, black peers, black teachers, black representation in the media; and to therefore, rewrite a different discourse; where black skin and natural black hair is beautiful, and where black people are intelligent, professional, and capable of solving the problems that so many foreign volunteers flock to try and solve themselves.

I would also like to note that I am not an expert, I am simply writing as a curious Peace Corp Volunteer reflecting on my service.

“No matter your complexion, we all have skin in the game of race relations, and we need to get it right.” Rev. Dr. A. Roy Medley, ABCUSA

A Brief Review of History

Addressing our history and the interplay between history and our role as volunteers is crucial for understanding ourselves as mirrors of our culture. One may start with the questions of, why are you here? Why Sub-Saharan Africa? Why not Southeast Asia? Or Eastern Europe? Or parts of the US? In deciding to come to Uganda, much of the what many Americans know about sub-Saharan Africa, is based off of literature and media portrayals of Africans by non-Africans; which follows in a long history of the US and European countries representing the “other.”

In his book Orientalism, Edward Said, while largely focusing on the middle-east, nonetheless begins his work be explaining Orientalism in broad terms, ie, the Orient as all of the colonies of Europe and the US (Said 4). Edward Said uses the term Orientalism to encompass the what the colonizers framed the difference between “us” and “them”, “Orientalism (is) a Western style for dominating, restructuring, and having authority over the Orient.” (Said 3) This domination meant not only the act of colonizing, (which was often justified, not only on economic, but also on moral grounds) but also through the production of literature, theatre, scholarly work, and university areas of study about the Orient as produced the colonizers, “Knowledge of the Orient…(is) something one studies and depicts (as in a curriculum), something one disciplines (as in a school or prison), something one illustrates (as in a zoological manual).” (Said 40) Moreover, the colonizers constructed knowledge about the Orient, “(Colonizers made) Orientalism, as a system of knowledge about the Orient, an accepted grid for filtering through the Orient into Western consciousness-the statements proliferating out from Orientalism into the generic culture.” (Said 6) Meaning, the material and knowledge constructed by the colonizers in regard to their colonies was the knowledge that permeated popular culture in the 18th and 19th centuries; therefore, constructing a view of the Orient dominated by the US and European frameworks (Said 40).

One of the methods by which colonizers justified colonialism was on, what they claimed to be, moral grounds. The United States and many European countries argued that the dominated countries in question were incapable of governing themselves, and inherently savage and immoral, “The Oriental is irrational, depraved (fallen), childlike, “different”; thus, the European is rational, virtuous, mature, and “normal’” (Said 39).

Furthermore, a fundamental aspect of the colonizers argument was race, “the Atlantic slave trade, did not have a purely economic rationale; rather is produced political structures as well as social representations of humanity that were ordered and ranked (Patterson 1982 as cited by Chaney, et al. 79) Many different disciplines, such as biology, philosophy, and theology, sought to explain in pseudo-scientific terms why some races were more primitive then others. It is during the nineteenth century, the field of eugenics flourished, and during the twentieth century, that more laws were put into place to institutionalize white supremacy, “During this period, theological and scientific elements could be combined in the process of making racial categories and educating the human senses to see race and normalize white supremacy.” (Chaney, et al. 81) By 1914 Colonial powers dominated 85% of the world. (p. 41) From the reasoning created during the Atlantic slave trade, to King Leopold’s genocide in the Congo, the Holocaust in Europe, to Jim Crow Laws, and Apartheid, the past several hundred years have sought to portray black people as incompetent and immoral, to therefore justify white supremacy (Chaney, et al. 83). Additionally, during the last several hundred years the US and European countries have been the dominant producers of literature and policy and the writers of history, the producers of culture and reinforcers of structure.

Thus, while Apartheid and Jim Crow Laws have ended, popular discourse still reflects a culture permeated by colonial-rooted notions of white superiority. The US is still producing portrayals of sub-Saharan Africans and filtering them into the consciousness of Americans, instead of those people living in sub-Saharan Africa representing themselves in the US media and in US literature. Moreover, these portrayals still produce images of Africans as incompetent. In the book, White Man’s Burden by William Easterly, he provides an excerpt of a 2004 speech by Stanford political scientist Stephen Kranser. Kranser stated, “Left to their own devices, collapsed and badly run governed states will not fix themselves…To reduce international threats and improve the prospects for individuals in such polities, alternative institutional arrangements supported by external actors, such as de facto trusteeships and shared sovereignty, should be added to the list of policy options.” (Stephen Krasner as cited by Easterly 270) While not explicitly colonialism the excerpt clearly suggests the patronizing attitude that the nations are unable to govern themselves; however, “Today’s nation builders would claim that they are more altruistic.” (Easterly 278)

It is not only in policy suggestion that the devaluation of black individuals and a patronizing attitude is present among US individuals. According to a 2015 PBS study in the United States, 51% of white men surveyed stated that they thought black people were lazy and 43% white men surveyed thought that black people were less intelligent; furthermore, “These racial disparities are perpetuated not only through explicit discrimination, but through the power of history.” (Mcelwee). Who writes history books? Who teaches history in schools? Moreover, not only are black men disproportionately incarcerated, but even black individuals who graduate from elite schools still have fewer job opportunities and a lower starting pay (Mcelwee). Here we can clearly ask ourselves, who is doing the hiring? And what history and discourses have informed their decision-making?

Additionally, black individuals are often portrayed negatively in the media, and are given disproportionate media attention when the news story relates to poverty and crime (The 2011 The Opportunity Agenda cited by Mcelwee). “These portrayals… in print media, on television, the internet, fiction shows, print advertising and video games, shape public views of and attitudes toward men of color. They not only help create barriers to advancement within our society, but also ‘make these positions (homeless and drug-dealers) seem natural and inevitable.’” (Leigh) Therefore, in relation to the Peace Corps, before volunteers begin their service, the public representations of black individuals they have seen are not of professionals but of unintelligent degenerates who need to be controlled, all too often through policy and force.

According to the NAACP, “African Americans are incarcerated at more than 5 times the rate of whites.” Yet, “African Americans and whites use drugs at similar rates, but the imprisonment rate of African Americans for drug charges is almost 6 times that of whites.” (NAACP) Moreover, any discussion of Black Lives Matter, unequal education or employment opportunities, and young black men being disproportionately killed by police, in fact, the “rate of death for young black men (killed by US police officers) was five times higher than white men of the same age” (Swaine, et al) is stifled. I also recommend reading the following article: http://www.theroot.com/open-letter-to-white-people-who-are-obsessed-with-black-1790856298

How can Peace Corps volunteers utilize their understanding of history and culture, combined with their experiences as a volunteer to raise an awareness of different narratives?

In the US, both overt acts of racism and the broad institutional racism, permeate society. For those willing to discuss is, I think many individuals are happy to discuss racism without reflecting upon their own behavior or how they may, whether aware of it or not, be contributing to systemic oppression. Kenyan-American writer, Teju Cole, wrote an excellent piece in 2012, titled, “White Industrial-Savior Complex”, in which he discusses both racism and discussions of race in the US today, and the role of volunteers in countries, like Uganda:

“There is an expectation that we can talk about sins but no one must be identified as a sinner: newspapers love to describe words or deeds as “racially charged” even in those cases when it would be more honest to say “racist”; we agree that there is rampant misogyny, but misogynists are nowhere to be found; homophobia is a problem but no one is homophobic. One cumulative effect of this policed language is that when someone dares to point out something as obvious as white privilege, it is seen as unduly provocative…the effect of this enforced civility is that those voices are falsified or blocked entirely from the discourse.” (Cole)

People do not want to be called a racist, therefore how does this play out with white individuals who decide to volunteer in sub-Saharan, Africa?

Prior to serving as a volunteer, many soon-to-be-volunteers, spend their whole lives exposed to the discourse of black individuals as unintelligent, racially inferior, and not fit to hold positions of prestige within society. Moreover, there is the added complexity of what is commonly referred to as the “white savior complex” a patronization of Africans, spawned from colonialism, in the volunteer culture of some individuals who chose to volunteer in sub-Saharan Africa. Volunteering is an industry, and the advertisements for the industry, which filter images of the ‘other’ into US consciousness, usually include colonial sentiments, such as, “Come and Do Good.” “Help the Poor Children of Africa” or “Only You Can Make a Difference.” I have heard volunteers refer to the Africans with whom they interact as their “children”, posting photos with them, the white volunteer, dressed in “exotic African clothing” surrounded by children. Local residents and communities are often mistreated in the name of ‘doing good’, but doing good is often doing a great deal of unintentional harm, “[f]rom orphanage tourism, to blatant racism in [the] treatment of local residents, to trafficking children in the name of adoption – the list of errors never ends” (Zane). Volunteers ought to treat local residents with respect, dignity, and professionalism “for example, nurses in America are not allowed to take Instagram photos of their patients and post emotionally captivating blurbs about how tragic their life is.” (Zane) Yet this happens once the individual is out of the US and “helping in Africa,” a statement I hear all too often. There is still a deeply engrained patronization of Africans in volunteer culture that is deeply seeded in colonialism.

What is so tragic about the so-called “White Savior Complex” is how acceptably it is portrayed, both historically, in its close relationship with colonialism, and today. However, I would like to add that there is nothing wrong with wanting to make the world a better place and learn about other places and peoples; however, what needs to be added to the discussion is what does it mean to “make a difference,” by examining why one would want to volunteer in a place like sub-Saharan, Africa, maybe it should be changed to “shut up, listen, do nothing, try and do no harm, try something, do no harm.” Do no harm, there is the important idea that those who are being helped ought to be consulted over the matters that concern them.” (Zane) Again, in his brilliant piece, “White Industrial-Savior Complex” Teju Cole, elaborates on the discussion of “making a difference.”

“One song we hear too often is the one in which Africa serves as a backdrop for white fantasies of conquest and heroism. From the colonial project to Out of Africa to The Constant Gardener and Kony 2012, Africa has provided a space onto which white egos can conveniently be projected. It is a liberated space in which the usual rules do not apply: a nobody from America or Europe can go to Africa and become a godlike savior or, at the very least, have his or her emotional needs satisfied. Many have done it under the banner of “making a difference… there is an internal ethical urge that demands that each of us serve justice as much as he or she can. But beyond the immediate attention that he rightly pays hungry mouths, child soldiers, or raped civilians, there are more complex and more widespread problems. There are serious problems of governance, of infrastructure, of democracy, and of law and order. These problems are neither simple in themselves nor are they reducible to slogans. Such problems are both intricate and intensely local.

How, for example, could a well-meaning American “help” a place like Uganda today? It begins, I believe, with some humility with regards to the people in those places. It begins with some respect for the agency of the people of Uganda in their own lives. A great deal of work had been done, and continues to be done, by Ugandans to improve their own country, and ignorant comments (I’ve seen many) about how “we have to save them because they can’t save themselves” can’t change that fact.

“Let us begin our activism right here…To do this would be to give up the illusion that the sentimental need to “make a difference” trumps all other considerations. What innocent heroes don’t always understand is that they play a useful role for people who have much more cynical motives. The White Savior Industrial Complex is a valve for releasing the unbearable pressures that build in a system built on pillage. We can participate in the economic destruction of Haiti over long years, but when the earthquake strikes it feels good to send $10 each to the rescue fund. I have no opposition, in principle, to such donations (I frequently make them myself), but we must do such things only with awareness of what else is involved. If we are going to interfere in the lives of others, a little due diligence is a minimum requirement.” (Cole)

Better informing ourselves of our colonial history, current discussion of racism in the United States, and the relationship between colonialism and the volunteer industry, can help us to better understand the structures that have informed our schemata. We are deeply informed by the discourses of the United States, and that is something we need to come to terms with. However, I believe that one of the most valuable aspects of Peace Corps is that it provides an avenue for volunteers to imagine and live within a different society so that we may adjust our schemata. Volunteers have the opportunity to have black role models, black peers, black teachers, black representation in the media; and to therefore, rewrite a different discourse; where black skin and natural black hair is beautiful, and where black people are intelligent, professional, and capable of solving the problems.

 

Citations

Chamberlain, Robert. An Introduction to Cultural Anthropology, 2016.

Chaney, David, et al. Cultural Sociology: An Introduction, 2012.

Cole, Teju. “The White Savior-Industrial Complex.” The Atlantic. 21 March 2012. http://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2012/03/the-white-savior-industrial-complex/254843/

Donaldson, Leigh. “When the media misrepresents black men, the effects are felt in the real world.” The Guardian, 12 Aug 2015. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2015/aug/12/media-misrepresents-black-men-effects-felt-real-world

Easterly, William. The White Man’s Burden, 2006.

Mcelwee, Sean. “The Hidden Racism of Young White Americans” PBS Newshour, 24 March, 2015. http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/americas-racism-problem-far-complicated-think/

“Criminal Justice Factsheet.” NAACP. 2017. http://www.naacp.org/criminal-justice-fact-sheet/

Said, Edward. Orientalism, 1978.

Swaine, Jon; Laughland, Oliver; Lartey, Jamiles; McCarthy, Ciara. “Young black men killed by US police at highest rate in a year of 1,134 deaths.” The Guardian. 31 December 2015. https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2015/dec/31/the-counted-police-killings-2015-young-black-men

Zane, Damian. “Barbie challenges the ‘White Saviour Complex’.” BBC News. 1 May 2016. http://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-36132482

“1961-1991 The Toughest Job You’ll Ever Love.” AdCouncil Peace Corps . 2016. http://www.adcouncil.org/Campaigns/The-Classics/Peace-Corps